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Postcards from Olhão

by Jeremy

Olhão is a coastal town in the Eastern Algarve, precisely between the mountains and the ocean. It is the largest fishing port in the region, with an abundance of fishing boats serenading the waterfront around the nearby islands. We visited in late September, just in time for the harvests of the seasonal fruits: figs, almonds, and carob.

Characterised by the Moorish-style houses and graffiti displays of the town’s past, expect to find contrasting colours among flat terraced roofs and tiles. On a short stroll from the train station to the old town, you can find the church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário (dates to the seventeenth century). The chapel behind it, dedicated to Nossa Senhora dos Afelitos, is still the holy place where the fishermen’s wives gather during stormy weather to pray for the lives of their husbands.

The two market buildings along the waterfront remain Olhão’s main attraction. This place sparks a buzzy atmosphere, with market stalls stacking high on local produce such as fruit, honey, fresh local fish, and livestock. In particular, Olhão is more known for the fish market, where chefs from restaurants in the area buy their fresh produce every week.

Portugal generally has a long tradition in the fishing sector, making it among the countries with the highest fish consumption per capita. Roman ruins of fish processing facilities were found across the coast, making this country a pioneer in fishing for the longest time. In Olhão, we ate at Lagar Mar restaurant, just a few steps from the fish market. Indulge in their appetisers, such as sardine paté, prawn skewers, and freshly shucked oysters hand-picked from Culatra. For dessert, try their pudding de uovo…you won’t be disappointed. A couple of other well-recognised restaurants in the town centre are Cervejaria Ria Formosa and Chá Chá Chá, both of which are rewarded for serving the best flavours from locally sourced ingredients.

After lunch, you can stroll along the pavement cafes to find a place to sit and enjoy the view of the boats moored along the waterfront in Olhão Marina with the sandy beach Ilhas of Armona and Culatra in the backdrop. A visit to the eastern Algarve isn’t complete without walking on the Ilha da Culatra. This stunningly beautiful island separates the sea from the natural park of Ria Formosa, which is spotless and great for diving and snorkeling.

Live the Algarvian lifestyle with a stay at the boho-chic property Octant Vila Monte Farm House. Located in Olhão´s municipality, in Moncarapacho, you will admire the interior work of Vera Iachia—who has worked with Andy Warhol and Jacques Grange. There are two swimming pools (one adult, one family), an outdoor cinema, a tennis court, a pond, and four buildings, including 55 rooms and a Suites Collection. Even if you are not planning to stay at the property, the À Terra restaurant is well worth reserving in advance to try some of the finest meat and fish dishes in the area.

You can find Monterosa olive oil farm within a short stroll from Vila Monte Farm House and only 10 kilometres from the northeast of Olhão. There is an option to enjoy a tour where you can learn about the process of making olive oil. This tradition has been inherited in the region for many centuries.

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