UNESCO-listed Berat, Albania’s “town of a thousand windows,” is a rare Ottoman gem. Winding our way up the stone paths of the fabled town felt like stepping into a living museum. Every worn step seemed to hum with centuries of stories, leading us toward the city’s crowning landmark: Berat Castle.
Perched high above the river, this fortress is more than a monument. It’s a community. Families still live within its walls, and their homes—many centuries old—now open as galleries, shops and guesthouses. We lost track of time meandering through its alleys, pausing to admire sun-bleached textiles, painted icons and crumbling stonework. Up on the mountain slope, just outside the castle, we found a quiet spot for lunch at Te Zalua, where the byrek me spinaq (spinach pie) and revani (orange semolina cake) quickly won us over.
Within the castle grounds, the Church of the Dormition of St Mary houses the Onufri Iconographic Museum, a jewel-box space full of vibrant, gold-leafed icons. Stepping outside again, we passed remnants of older structures—traces of earlier civilisations that hint at Berat’s deep-rooted history.
Back downhill, we crossed the Gorica Bridge into the Christian quarter of Gorica. There, quiet cobbled lanes curled between churches and stone houses. The pace softened. We picked up sun-warmed figs and plums from a vendor and found a shaded bench beside the Osum River for an impromptu snack. Later, from a tucked-away bar, we watched golden light spill over Mangalem and its hillside of white Ottoman houses.
Mangalem itself, historically the Muslim quarter, is a wonder—layered with faith, tradition and rhythm. The Red Mosque, with its solitary minaret, anchors the neighbourhood quietly, a reminder of the city’s enduring Islamic heritage. We wandered the alleys without a plan, just following sound, scent and shadows.
We crossed back to Gorica for lunch at Tradita E Beratit, a beautifully restored boutique hotel and restaurant with views across the river. It felt like stepping into someone’s family home, complete with a table full of flavour and memory. Their beef roll, grilled and smoky, wrapped around herbs and cheese, paired beautifully with the house red. It wasn’t just lunch—it was a story served in courses.
Our base, Hotel Ansel, tucked into the heart of Mangalem, made every morning feel generous. A breakfast of soft traditional pancakes, homemade cakes, seasonal fruit, local cheeses and freshly cooked eggs was served with quiet grace—and coffee strong enough to fuel another day of wandering.
One of those days led us to Alpeta Agrotourism & Winery, tucked into the hills. We came for the tasting, stayed for the storytelling, and ended up spending the night. But that, truly, is a tale for another postcard.
