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Postcards from Aveiro

Aveiro is a fishing town on northern Portugal’s Rota da Luz (the Route of Light). The ethereal town of water looks like a dream from the depths of the canals, surrounded by salt flats, lagoons, and beaches that are dominated by the central canal running through the nostalgically charming township. The moliceiros (local boats) meander across this canal, where the canals intersect with a network of smaller canals. These slim, colourful vessels are used to collect algae and seaweed, and today they are used for sightseeing trips. Visiting on foot does not mean much effort either since the city is flat, and anyone who enjoys cycling can take a “BUGA” – bicycles made freely available by the Aveiro City Council.

The moliceiros are beautifully painted with bright colours and with often humorous decorations. Aveiro is also famous for its salt production, in fact in a train ride from Oporto, you can enjoy views of large stacks of salt across the lagoons. Emblematic of the city is the sweet made with eggs and sugar – the ovos moles (soft eggs) sold in wooden barrels or wrapped in a crusty wafer in different shapes. But before this treat, you can comfort your stomach with the delights that the sea offers, such as shellfish, fresh fish grilled or casseroled, and eels, characteristic of this region, which are served casseroled or marinated.

Aveiro has several buildings in Art Nouveau style that are worth seeing. Many are situated along the main channel, but some are off the beaten track. The location of the buildings is indicated in a guide available at the Tourist Office, and you can get to know this style even better in the museum dedicated to it. Another essential place to visit is the Aveiro Museum in the Convent of Jesus, where you can admire the Mausoleum of Princess Saint Joana and the gilded woodcarvings that decorate the church’s interior. These are to be found in abundance in the chapel of Senhor das Barrocas and with less vitality in the Misericordia Church, whose mannerist portal deserves mention. Those who appreciate contemporary Portuguese architecture should not miss the University buildings.

To get to the beach part (São Jacinto Dunes Natural Reserve) you will need a car, but worth the 15-minutes trip as it is totally relaxing and full of locals that love to soak up the Atlantic Ocean. Surfing is a popular activity on the beaches surrounding Aveiro, so do expect some water activities to pick up from about May to September.

If you have time in the area, head south to the Praia da Barra to catch a glimpse of the tallest lighthouse in the country or the Costa Nova, known for its striped “sheds”. Nearby is Ílhavo, a town with strong fishing traditions well documented in the Maritime Museum. The town is heavily characterised by fish and seafood, but you can also try the local favourite, feijoada de búzios, a comforting bean stew filled with sea snails similar to “whelk” in English-speaking countries.

If you are visiting Oporto, visit Aveiro for a day trip and enjoy the nearby wild beaches.

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