The medina in Fez, Morocco, gave us some of the most peculiar yet delicious flavours ever experienced and exceeded our expectations. The decadent, authentic Moroccan recipes and new cooking methods are buzzing in the ancient city’s backstreets. There is much to offer, from hole-in-the-wall establishments serving popular family-cooked food to cute cafes and traditional restaurants housed in dars and riads, to fine dining in more Moroccan European restaurants.
Dar Roumana
Dar Roumana is a beautiful traditional dar located in the Fez medina. Our first visit was back in 2015, when we were ridiculously impressed by the team and size of the unassuming property. Younes Idriss is the Head Chef at their in-house restaurant, masterminding an array of dishes on location. The hotel coin the food as Franco-Moroccan fusion, with a nod to the style of cooking found at a Parisian bistro paired with traditional Moroccan food.
We recommend tucking into some tasty dishes that ring to the fine tune of grilled octopus, roasted lamb tenderloin stuffed with apricots, pecan nuts and oregano, and seasonal salads – most of which were locally sourced. Expect other popular dishes such as roast pumpkin salad with tahini, braised local rabbit with mustard seed sauce and more. Best to make a reservation to avoid disappointment, as this place is very well known for its Franco-Moroccan cuisine in a fine dining setting.
Ruined Garden
As we approached the restaurant, the air was thin, and the aroma of Fassi cuisine greeted us before we even reached the door. Inside, we found ourselves in a nature lover’s paradise, surrounded by lemon, orange trees, jasmine, and roses in full bloom. The floral decor and exotic plants added charm to the ruined setting.
Robert Johnstone, the owner, shared the story of how he and his partner John transformed the crumbled space into Riad Idrissy. The Ruined Garden came after the riad, offering traditional Moroccan cuisine and cooking classes in the old city.
We indulged in the Kefta Mkaoura, whose aroma had us drooling, and the monkfish and salmon, rich with spice. The salted lemon cheesecake was a perfect finish. Daily specials vary, but you can expect dishes like b’stilla or caramelised onion couscous, offering an authentic Moroccan feast.
Café Clock
Café Clock in Fez, Morocco, has been setting the scene for the ancient city since its opening a few years ago. It’s a three-floor restored townhouse (250 years old) with funky aspects, including gems picked up from souks that make this place unique. Moroccan hip hop followed by belly dancing grooves, free wi-fi access and the much talked about camel burgers from head chef Tariq Taza, give this culture hub all the hype it deserves.
Cafe Clock is the perfect spot to take a break from Medina’s traditional Moroccan cuisine. Instead, tuck into grilled sandwiches, falafels, milkshakes, delicious cakes, and other Moroccan dishes with a hint of fusion combinations. We devoured the falafels, vegetable b’stilla, aubergine and goats cheese quiche, Moroccan salads and other dishes on our numerous encounters with this food house. When the heat gets intense, order their famous fresh mint lemonade.
Adjoining the hip scene is the ‘Clock Culture’ program which includes calligraphy and language exchange classes, movie nights, storytelling sessions, lecture programmes and sunset concerts on Sundays (cover charge around Dh20 / 2 euros), attracting a good mix of locals, expats and tourists. Whether you choose to lounge on the terrace, the red room, the courtyard, or the balcony, you will learn quickly how spoilt and comfortable you can be in this place.
NUR
Inside the medina of Fez, NUR Restaurant offers a gastronomic experience curated by rotating international chefs. Owned by former fashion director Stephen di Renza, NUR stands out with its black-and-white tiles, marble water wall, and minimalist décor featuring art by Keiichi Tahara and Maïmouna Patrizia Guerresi. The space also connects with Riad nº9, an 18th-century guesthouse run by the same owner.
The chef-in-residence program, led by di Renza and project manager Tara Stevens, attracts talent from around the world. Chefs combine Moroccan produce with global culinary techniques, staying for one to four months to craft creative menus while engaging with local farmers.
In February 2015, we dined under the care of chef Hector Ignacio Bracchiglione, a Mugaritz-trained talent from Chile. His fusion of experience from Michelin-starred kitchens in France and Japan exemplifies the calibre of chefs featured at NUR.
Palais Amani
For those looking for an intimate dining experience, Palais Amani is a must. From the moment you step inside, the discreet riad, orange trees, and fountains greet visitors as they walk past those fortunate to stay. There is the option of heading to the pretty rooftop to enjoy an aperitif, complemented by breathtaking views of the medina and the gentle sound of the birds in the trees.
Amani’s Eden restaurant serves creative French and Moroccan food. Flavourful tagines, vibrant and seasonal salads and couscous dishes are served. Diners can enjoy a three-course menu at the stylish, traditional, decadent dining space opposite the leafy garden. Foodies and wine enthusiasts can also book a memorable wine-tasting experience featuring a 5-course menu designed by chefs to match a flight of the finest Moroccan wines.
