Postcards from Olhão
Olhão is a coastal town in the Eastern Algarve, in the precise place between the mountains and the ocean. It is the largest fishing port of the region with an abundance of fishermen boats serenading the waterfront around the islands nearby. We visited in late September, just in time for the harvests of the seasonal fruits; figs, almond and carob.
Characterised by the Moorish-style houses and graffiti displays of the town´s past, expect to find contrasts of colours among flat terraced roofs and tiles. On a short stroll from the train station to the old town, you can find the church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário (dates to the seventeenth century). The chapel behind it, dedicated to Nossa Senhora dos Afelitos, is still the holy place where the fishermen’s wives gather during stormy weather to pray for the lives of their husbands.
The two market buildings along the waterfront are still Olhão's main point of attraction. This place sparks a buzzy atmosphere with market stalls stacking high on local produce such as fruit, honey and fresh local fish in addition to livestock. In particular, Olhão is more known for the fish market, where every week chefs from restaurants in the area buy their fresh produce.
Portugal in general has a long tradition in the fishing sector, making it among the countries in the world with the highest fish consumption per capita. Roman ruins of fish processing facilities were found across the coast, making this country a pioneer in fishing for the longest time. In Olhão, we made sure to eat at the restaurant Lagar Mar, just a few steps from the fish market. Indulge in their appetisers such as sardine paté and prawn skewers, and freshly-shucked oysters hand-picked from Culatra. For dessert, try their pudding de uovo…you won’t be disappointed. A couple of other well-recognised restaurants in the town centre are Cervejaria Ria Formosa and Chá Chá Chá, both of these places rewarded for serving the best flavours from locally-sourced ingredients.
After lunch, you can enjoy a stroll along the pavement cafes to find a place to sit and enjoy the view of the boats moored along the waterfront in Olhão Marina with the sandy beach Ilhas of Armona and Culatra in the backdrop. A visit to the eastern Algarve isn’t complete without walking on the Ilha da Culatra. This stunningly beautiful island separates the sea from the natural park of Ria Formosa, a place that is spotless and great for diving and snorkeling.
Live the Algarvian lifestyle with a stay at the boho-chic property Vila Monte Farm House. Located in Olhão´s municipality, in Moncarapacho, you will admire the interior work of Vera Iachia—who has worked with Andy Warhol and Jacques Grange. There are two swimming pools (one adult, one family), an outdoor cinema, tennis court, pond, and four buildings that include 55 rooms in addition to a Suites Collection. Even if you are not planning to stay at the property, the À Terra restaurant is well worth reserving in advance to try some of the finest meat and fish dishes in the area.
Within a short stroll from Vila Monte Farm House and only 10 kilometres from the northeast of Olhão, you can find Monterosa olive oil farm. There is an option to enjoy a tour where you can learn about the process of making olive oil. This is a tradition that has been inherited in the region for many centuries.
Order the grilled sardines at Lagar Mar, one of the best places in town if you are in for fresh seafood
Explore the Legend of the Enchanted Moorish Boy - a story about a young fisherman named Manuel Caleça and his encounter with a mysterious boy
Fabulous murals can be seen at the edge of the Bairro do Levante, these are the works of four urban art artists who portrayed the reality of the town's yesteryears
Portuguese tile patterns known as azulejos are a fashionable staple in the culture
Portuguese pavement can sometimes be arranged in a form of a pattern or image, like a mosaic
You’ll find many doors and colourful building façades whilst in the town, be camera ready
Restaurant Lagar Mar make spectacular cod fish dishes
Never mind the store, check out the pastel-coloured building
