72 hrs in Tirana

Once the forbidden enclave of Albania’s Communist elite, Blloku is now the city’s trendiest neighbourhood, a lively patchwork of espresso bars, boutiques, and rooftop terraces. Its past whispers through the streets: the former home of Enver Hoxha still stands quietly among palm trees and pastel façades, while around it, young creatives shape Tirana’s cosmopolitan present.

Start the day at Food Club, a bright and modern café-restaurant that captures Blloku’s appetite for good living. The menu pairs Mediterranean influences with Albanian produce, light, fresh, and ideal for people-watching over a cappuccino. For dinner, Mon Amour offers refined Albanian and Italian dishes, its softly lit interiors perfect for lingering conversations and a glass of local wine.

Stay nearby at Padam Boutique Hotel, a beautifully restored villa that epitomises the new Tirana: elegant, intimate, and effortlessly stylish. With its leafy garden and acclaimed restaurant, it’s the perfect address for those drawn to culture, comfort, and character in equal measure.

The city centre is Tirana’s grand stage, a place where the layers of Albania’s history are written in stone and sound. At its heart lies Skanderbeg Square, a vast marble expanse that feels both monumental and open, framed by the ochre facades of Italian-era government buildings. Around it, history unfolds: the National History Museum, currently under restoration, still dominates one side with its iconic mosaic, The Albanians, depicting centuries of resilience. A short stroll away, the Et’hem Bey Mosque, delicate, frescoed, and luminous, remains one of the city’s most beloved landmarks.

We spent a time here with a private walking guide, whose stories stitched the old and new together. He led us past the Opera House and National Gallery of Arts, across boulevards lined with Socialist Modernist architecture, and into shaded arcades revealing Tirana’s Italian influence. The Pyramid of Tirana, once a monument to the former dictator Enver Hoxha, now stands transformed into a cultural hub and viewpoint, symbolic of the city’s spirit of renewal.

Beyond the centre, the Bunk’Art museums — housed in vast Cold War-era bunkers — offer immersive insight into Albania’s complex history, blending archival exhibits with modern installations. Together, these sites embody Tirana’s evolving identity: confronting the past, celebrating progress, and embracing creativity.

When hunger calls, L’Osteria is a must for lunch or dinner. Its intimate setting and considered Italian menu, from fresh pasta to local wines, make it one of central Tirana’s most rewarding finds.

For those seeking to stay in the heart of it all, Hotel Boutique Gloria offers warm hospitality and elegant simplicity, just a short walk from the city’s key sights.

A few steps from Skanderbeg Square lies Tirana Castle, also known as Kalaja e Tiranës, where the city’s ancient foundations now house one of its most contemporary scenes. The medieval walls have been reimagined into a collection of independent boutiques, artisan shops, and cafés. It’s a living metaphor for Tirana itself, rooted in history but pulsing with new energy.

Inside the castle complex, stop at Piceri Era, beloved for its wood-fired pizzas and reinterpreted Albanian classics, served in a relaxed, convivial setting. A short walk away, Fish Shop Tirana offers something more refined, elegant seafood plates and crisp white wines, perfect for an unhurried evening.

After days of urban discovery, the Grand Park of Tirana, or Tirana Lake Park, provides a refreshing shift of pace. Stretching across 230 hectares, it’s the green heart of the capital, where locals come to jog, cycle, picnic, and breathe. Early mornings are filled with runners tracing the lakeside paths, while evenings bring couples and families to watch the sunset glint across the water. It’s here that Tirana’s rhythm softens, where the city exhales.

The park is also home to the Presidential Palace, the Saint Procopius Church, and the Botanical Gardens, all within walking distance. In summer, the Grand Park Amphitheatre hosts open-air concerts and film nights beneath a canopy of trees, a reminder that the city’s creative pulse extends far beyond its urban edges.

A short drive from the city centre lies Blerina, an idyllic agritourism retreat surrounded by countryside. The concept blends farm life with gastronomy, offering guests the chance to explore the gardens, meet the animals, and experience seasonal Albanian produce at its freshest. Families are warmly welcomed, with activities for children and plenty of space to roam. The food is as memorable as the setting. vibrant, homemade, and deeply connected to the land.

End your stay at The Rooms Hotel Tirana, one of the city’s most design-forward boutique properties. With its wellness centre, minimalist interiors, and proximity to the lake, it perfectly captures Tirana’s balance of nature, leisure, and contemporary design.

As you wander back towards the centre, you might pass the rising domes of the Namazgja Mosque, still under construction. Its vast scale and graceful design speak to Tirana’s ongoing evolution — a city unafraid to build boldly while holding onto its sense of community and calm.