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72 hours in Marseille

France’s oldest city isn’t trying to be polished. That’s precisely its charm. Marseille is a beautiful tangle of cultures, textures, and timeworn grandeur. With its mix of sea air and street art, historic chapels and concept boutiques, there’s an irresistible grit-meets-glamour energy here. One moment you’re standing beneath the striped domes of the Cathédrale de la Major, the next you’re sipping natural wine at a converted épicerie or swimming off the rocks at Vallon des Auffes.

Its layered history—Greek foundations, North African influence, a fiercely independent Mediterranean identity—seeps into every aspect of the city. You taste it in the food, feel it in the rhythm of the streets, and hear it in the blend of languages spoken across neighbourhood markets. This is Marseille: unapologetically diverse, effortlessly magnetic.

It’s the kind of place that rewards wandering. Turn a corner and you might stumble upon a centuries-old bakery, a colourful mural, or a plaza bursting with locals. Base yourself at the charming Hotel La Relève, tucked down a quiet side street in the city centre. From here, every neighbourhood unfurls with character—some vibrant and chaotic, others serene and sea-facing. Each holds stories to tell.

Hotel La Releve
Blue Suite Bathroom at La Relève Hotel, Marseille

LE PANIER & VIEUX PORT

Start in the 2nd arrondissement, where Marseille began. Le Panier is its oldest quartier, a pastel-coloured maze climbing above the old harbour. Shuttered windows, flaking walls and spontaneous murals make it one of the city’s most photogenic corners. But it’s more than just pretty: it’s layered with history and a palpable sense of local pride.

Nearby, at 136 Rue Sainte, lies Le Four des Navettes, Marseille’s oldest bakery established in 1781. Renowned for its orange blossom-scented navettes—delicate boat-shaped biscuits—this historic spot winds you into postcard territory, with tiny ateliers, plant-lined balconies, and the occasional café spilling out onto cobbled streets.

Make your way to the monumental Cathédrale de la Major, one of France’s largest churches, where striped stonework and lofty domes dominate the skyline.

A few minutes’ walk downhill brings you to the Vieux Port. This harbour has been Marseille’s beating heart for over 2,600 years. Mornings here are for watching fishermen auction off their catch; afternoons for people-watching at café terraces. When culture calls, cross the slick footbridge to Mucem—the Museum of Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean (7 Promenade Robert Laffont). Its lacy lattice shell is a modern architectural gem that overlooks the sea and connects to the 17th-century Fort Saint-Jean.

This area is also home to InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu, a palatial five-star stay in an 18th-century hospital. Even if you’re not checking in, stop by for drinks on the terrace with views over the port.

NOAILLES & COURS JULIEN

Introducing Marseille’s eclectic, boisterous centre via Noailles, the vibrant 1st arrondissement district nicknamed “the belly of Marseille.” It’s a sensory overload—in the best way. The Marché des Capucins buzzes with the chatter of vendors selling North African spices, fresh mint, olives, and aubergines, while the scent of shawarma and incense drifts through Rue d’Aubagne.

Just uphill is Cours Julien, the city’s creative soul. Once the stronghold of second-hand bookshops, it’s now a canvas of giant murals and indie energy. Cafés, vintage shops and concept stores line every square and stairwell. Record lovers will appreciate a stop at Lollipop Music Store (2 Rue Pastoret), a nostalgic haven of vinyl and vintage fashion, while small independent ateliers offer handmade ceramics, art prints, and curated home goods.

Don’t miss Super Cools (20 Rue Pastoret), a laid-back épicerie and wine bar celebrating hyper-local produce and natural wines—think seasonal cheeses, organic charcuterie, and a thoughtful selection of bottles perfect for apéro or taking home.

For a cultural fix, La Friche la Belle de Mai (41 Rue Jobin) is a must. Housed in a repurposed tobacco factory, it fuses exhibition space, rooftop bar, bookshop and skate park. Come for the art, stay for the sunset.

Just a short stroll from Cours Julien, T65 (35 Avenue de la Corse) is worth seeking out for its airy, minimalist setting and perfect pastries and variety of bio breads—a local favourite that blends precision baking with creative flair.

Boutique hotel lovers should keep Le Ryad Boutique Hôtel (16 Rue Sénac de Meilhan) on their radar. This Moroccan-inspired riad is a peaceful refuge from the city buzz, with tiled courtyards and a lush garden at its heart.

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LA CORNICHE & ENDOUME

Slow things down with a change of pace in the 7th arrondissement, where Marseille opens to the sea. The Corniche Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy—or just La Corniche to locals—is a sweeping coastal promenade that hugs the Mediterranean. Start near the Plages du Prado, then walk north with the sea on your left and mansions peeking through pine trees on your right.

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One of the city’s best-kept secrets is Vallon des Auffes, a tiny traditional fishing port tucked below the Corniche. Here, time seems to stand still. Colourful wooden boats bob in a narrow cove, and restaurants perch on stilts above the water. Nab a table at Chez Fonfon (140 Rue du Vallon des Auffes) for Marseille’s best bouillabaisse, or go luxe at L’Epuisette next door—Michelin-starred and mesmerisingly good.

Wander into Endoume, a laid-back residential neighbourhood dotted with boulangeries, wine bars and small galleries. It’s the kind of place where Marseille’s rhythm slows, and everyday life unfolds at a Mediterranean pace.

For a boutique stay, Les Bords de Mer (52 Corniche Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy) captures the effortless charm of the city’s seafront. The design is all clean lines and calming hues, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the sea. There’s a rooftop pool, a chic little spa, and direct access to the beach—perfect for travellers looking to combine Marseille’s cultural beat with coastal serenity.

And if you’re after full-blown indulgence, Le Petit Nice Passedat (Anse de Maldormé) is just around the corner. A Relais & Châteaux property with a three-Michelin-starred restaurant, it delivers elevated Mediterranean living in every sense.

Les Bords de Mer

LES GOUDES - OFFBEAT ESCAPE

If you have a little more time—or simply crave a wilder edge to your Marseille experience—head to Les Goudes, a tucked-away fishing village at the very edge of the city in the 8th arrondissement. It’s about a 30-minute drive from the centre, but it feels worlds away. Once here, the city noise fades, replaced by salty winds, dramatic limestone cliffs, and the wide-open sea.

Les Goudes is the unofficial gateway to the Calanques National Park, and while many come here to hike or boat through its secluded inlets, others are here for one place: Tuba Club.

 

 

Tuba is part seaside refuge, part design destination. Carved into the cliffs with uninterrupted views of the Mediterranean, this former diving club has been transformed into a boutique bolthole with just five rooms. Its restaurant and terrace are perched above the rocks, where long rosé lunches and salty swims roll effortlessly into golden-hour apéritifs. The interiors lean into raw minimalism—concrete, ceramics, wood—but the atmosphere is pure Riviera bohemia.

Whether you’re staying the night or just swinging by for lunch and a dip, Les Goudes offers a completely different pace—one that feels like Marseille exhaling. Bring a swimsuit, leave your schedule behind, and soak up the magic where the city meets the sea.