72 hours in Malaga

The beating heart of Malaga lies in its labyrinthine old centre, where an aimless wander is essential for any visitor, short or prolonged. This entirely pedestrianised quarter reveals its secrets around every corner, making it perhaps the best starting point for orientation upon arrival. The wide Calle Larios, the main commercial artery, stretches through this district with high-end shops and diverse merchants tucked into narrow side streets. This grand avenue leads to the bustling Plaza de Constitucion, where the iconic Café Central showcases Malaga’s unique take on the preferred coffee to milk ratio.

Within this historic quarter stands the famed Renaissance cathedral with its beautiful Baroque façade. Construction began in 1528, and whilst officially completed in 1782, one of its two main towers remains unfinished – earning it the local nickname “La Manquita” or “the one-armed lady.” A short walk brings you to the popular Plaza Merced, lined with traditional tapas bars and cafes. This square holds special significance as the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, whose natal home, now a museum, sits on one corner. The elegant Cervantes theatre, home to various stage performances and Malaga’s city orchestra, stands proudly behind the hip new market adjacent to the plaza.

The neighbourhood’s cultural offerings are extensive, housing the Picasso Museum and Carmen Thyssen museum, each offering distinct artistic perspectives. The main Atarazanas food market is also a must for any food-loving visitor, offering an excellent spot to pause for some tapas whilst exploring the historic hall.

As evening falls, the historic centre comes alive with some of Malaga’s finest dining establishments. Traditional flavours shine at La Farola de Orellana (Moreno Monroy, 3), whilst El Tapeo del Cervantes (Carcer, 8) offers seasonal market-driven menus. More upscale, modern interpretations await at Uvedoble Taberna (Calle Cister, 15) and Cosmopolita (Calle Fresca). The popular El Pimpi, partly owned by native son Antonio Banderas, offers a more casual atmosphere with its celebrity-photo-adorned walls and outdoor terrace.

Within the port city of Malaga itself, many historical remnants are still easily discovered with a minimal amount of digging. The “Alcazaba”, the old Moorish fort reminiscent of the Alhambra in Granada, is the most obvious example. Highly visible atop a hill overlooking the city, the Alcazaba stands as a monument to the era of Islamic rule (from roughly the 8th to the 15th centuries) when all of “Al-Andaluz” belonged to the caliphate centred in Cordoba and Granada. Bring comfortable shoes for the steep walk up to the fortress, but once on-site, visitors enjoy not just a fascinating walk back in time, but some of the best views over the city and expansive coastline. At the base of that hill, an incredibly well-preserved Roman amphitheatre sits at the edge of the historic centre of Malaga. Some glimpses of the ancient city wall are visible at points in the city, while the influences of Andalusia’s three cultures, Jewish, Islamic, and Christian, show through in the impressive architecture of the old town centre.

Soho, known as the “Barrio de las Artes” or “Arts District,” is Málaga’s vibrant hub for art and culture enthusiasts. This transformation began in the late 2000s when local visionaries, including the director of the Contemporary Art Museum (CAC Málaga), sought to rejuvenate a neglected area into a thriving artistic enclave.

A standout feature of Soho is its dynamic street art scene. Initiatives like the MAUS project have invited renowned artists to adorn the neighbourhood’s walls with captivating murals, turning the streets into an open-air gallery.

Beyond visual arts, Soho boasts a variety of cultural venues, including private galleries, artist studios, and theatres like La Alameda. The district is also home to the Contemporary Art Centre (CAC Málaga), offering a diverse range of modern art exhibitions.

Soho’s culinary scene is equally enticing, with numerous restaurants serving local, organic, and gourmet cuisine. The first Saturday of every month features the “Made in Soho” market, where visitors can explore stalls offering design pieces, crafts, artworks, antiques, and vintage items.

Strategically located near Málaga’s main tourist areas, Soho is easily navigable on foot, making it a must-visit for those seeking to experience the city’s creative pulse.

The port area has evolved into a sophisticated dining and shopping destination, anchored by Restaurante Jose Carlos Garcia at Muelle Uno. This Michelin-starred establishment, helmed by Malaga’s native-born chef, represents the pinnacle of local gastronomy. The striking Pompidou Centre, a satellite museum housing works from the main Pompidou museum in Paris, adds a contemporary cultural dimension to the waterfront.

The port also serves as a gateway for various maritime activities. Ferry services operate to destinations such as Melilla, and cruise ships frequently dock here, bringing tourists from around the globe. The port’s facilities have been modernized to accommodate these large vessels, contributing to Málaga’s status as a significant cruise destination.

Malaga province extends far beyond the city limits, offering dramatic landscapes from rugged mountains to sweeping coastlines. The eastern Axarquia region presents a more authentic Spain, where time moves slower and traditional agriculture still thrives. Here, the Zostera Catamaran in Caleta de Velez offers dolphin-watching excursions, while inland villages like Canillas de Aceituno and  Frigiliana (perched above the popular seaside town of Nerja)  preserve their whitewashed charm.

Wine enthusiasts can explore two distinct regions: the Axarquia’s sweet wine production, continuing ancient Phoenician traditions with the Moscatel grape at wineries like Ordoñez and Bodegas Bentomiz, or Ronda’s sophisticated reds and whites at establishments such as Cortijo de los Aguilas and Bodega F. Schatz.

Malaga airport is only a short taxi ride away from the city centre, at about 10 minutes. This will hopefully afford time for a last look at the old town and a stop for “churros” and chocolate with a final deep breath of fresh sea air to take in the local scents, flavours, and customs. If you’re looking for a boutique hideaway for your Andalusian trip, do view Cortijo el Carligto. Ultimately, there’s more to do in Malaga than a 72-hour stay can afford, so don’t say “adios” but “hasta luego” and make a return just as soon as possible.

Seville serves as an excellent base for exploring the stunning region of Andalusia, with nearby gems like the picturesque city of Malaga just a short journey away. A visit to Seville guarantees an authentic introduction to the heart and soul of southern Spain. The vibrant capital of Andalusia is a city that effortlessly blends history, culture, and modernity, making it an irresistible destination for travellers. With its rich Moorish heritage, awe-inspiring architecture, and delightful cuisine, Seville offers an enchanting experience like no other.