72 hours in Valencia

Valencia is one of the liveliest and largest cities in Spain. It is located smack right in the middle of the country's eastern coastline almost in line with the Balearic Islands. The beaches are stunningly beautiful, the buzzing lifestyle is enviable, with the nightlife full of the most fun parties. Together with an ample cultural offer, the city has so much to cater for the visitors. International sports events like the American Cup and the Formula 1 Grand Prix have put Valencia city on the world map. We had like to think that a lot more attention has been given to the city because it's a very likeable city, with a lot to enjoy. Valencia's great Mediterranean weather, live markets, close proximity to the beach and historical monuments make this city easily one to visit in southern Europe. 

RUZAFA

Ruzafa is considered the Soho of Valencia, largely due in part to its indie stores, vintage boutiques, bars and book shops. Local residents share a youthful zest for life and are a magnet for creativity and trends. It is Valencia’s most stylised neighbourhood, encompassing a movement for both fashion and architecture that keeps attracting a curious expat community. This is where we discovered Yours Boutique Hotel, Dutch couple Daphne Kniest and Wouter Kock saw an opportunity in an old dry-cleaning shop and have revamped and converted the building into a 12-room design hotel. It is these kinds of stories that define the neighbourhood the best.

Ruzafa has risen to the top to be ranked as one of the most visited neighbourhoods for tourists, thanks in large part to the gastronomic offer. Ricard Camarena’s Canalla Bistro and Quique Dacosta’s Mercarbar are two restaurants run by the city’s top chefs. We especially love the food and ambiance at Amor Amargo Bodega on Carrer de Mossèn Femenia nº 3. A good selection of pulled pork bites, ham croquettes, fried potatoes dipped in aioli, and lots of other dishes to share in a group setting. Ruzafa is also full of international cuisines, such as the beautiful Nozomi Sushi Bar, Fierro and vegan food, and cosmopolitan-design restaurant Copenhagen. The neighbourhood is also cherished with artisan breweries, namely Olhöps o Ruzanovol, and cafés, such as BlueBell Coffee Roasters and Dulce de Leche, a busy breakfast spot with an assortment of tempting cakes to try.

On Calle Cuba, you can spot a designer goods store called Gnomo with interior design work by Masquespacio. Gnomo takes reference from the 80s. This cool store has fashion accessories, illustrations, plants and clothing. Also worth visiting whilst in the area is Ubik Café, a cafe-cum-bookshop, selling publications in a variety of languages.

Ruzafa is known for the intense artistic and cultural life that has flooded the streets in recent years. In this sense, one of the cultural hubs of the neighbourhood is the Sala Russafa, where you can find everything from theatre and dance performances to classic film retrospectives and crime novel congresses. There are also interesting contemporary art galleries such as Espai Tactel, Color Elefante and Trentatres Gallery, the latter two of which also have a gastronomic space. Not to be overlooked is the Mercado de Ruzafa; a local, zero-kilometre produce just a few metres from the centre of Valencia.

Valencia's new green space, the Parque Central (Parc Central), is an area located between Ruzafa and Malilla with more than 100,000 square metres of land. The project, which starts from what used to be train tracks, was designed by the American landscaper Kathryn Gustafson. Expect to find a huge structure of promenades and water trails that connect different spaces to each other. This is a must-visit, especially if you are travelling as a family, as the children’s play areas have a climbing wall, slides and parks in addition to there being an area for dogs.

VALENCIA OLD TOWN

Ruzafa is situated just south of the historic centre, and is within walking distance of the old town centre where every day we stroll past the famous Central Market (Mercado Central de Valencia) to top up on olives, and wines and empanadas to take. Every travel guide to Valencia probably has an overwhelming amount of information about this market, but being frequent visitors to this city, we too can’t seem to get enough from the market. It was designed by the architects Alejandro Soler March and Francisco Guardia Vial in 1914. However, it took 14 years before it was finished by Enrique Viedma and Ángel Romaní. Alfonso XIII inaugurated the Valencia Market on 23 January 1928, a place where food was offered to more than two thousand poor people. The Central Market not only stands out for being a pioneer in the world in online sales and even offering home delivery service, but it is also one of the largest in Europe with a surface area of 8,160 square metres. Its floor plan is made up of three sections: the central section or market itself, topped by a large iron, glass and ceramic dome, and the two side sections that house the fishmongers. It is no coincidence that it is the largest market centre in Europe, bringing together almost 400 small traders.

The Central Market consists of a ground floor with columns and vaults with a brick base and a basement

Valencia Central Market

This great modernist building was designed in 1914, and inaugurated in 1928

Valencia Central Market

The Central Market is one of the seven main markets in the city

Another favourite stop in the old town centre is the CCCC (The Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània), a former convent restored for cultural use, which is the headquarters of the Consortium of Museums of the Valencian Community. If you want to get to know Dulk more closely and delve deeper into his creative process, don't miss the “Natural Process” ("Procés natural") exhibition at the Sala Zero of the CCCC, and plunge into the Valencian artist's most personal exhibition to date. Dulk is committed to the power of artistic creation as a fundamental demand for change. With a careful selection of paintings, several installations, some sketches made during his professional career and even drawings rescued from his childhood, you can discover the work of the artist selected to design the València 2022 Falla Municipal.

The urban art scene in Valencia is easily comparable to cities like Berlin or Amsterdam. The street art or graffitis can be found on walls, ruined buildings, shutters of premises, garages, etc. Its authors are well-known national and international graffiti artists, such as Hyuro, Escif, Julieta XLF, David Limón, Deith, Blu, Cere among many others. To see this wonderful work of art displayed across the city, you will mainly go through the district of Ciutat Vella, with special emphasis on the Barrio del Carmen, one of the areas with more murals and colour in Valencia.

Some stores whether you are a fan of the products or not are must-visits because they package the culture of the place. This is true for Simple, a concept store that opened in 2013 in Carrer del Palau nº 5. They sell everyday objects, made in Spain, traditionally with the utmost care and quality. Near the Central Market, you can also find Abanicos Vivenca in Plaza Lope de Vega nº 5. We were delighted to see how the owner, Vicente Benlloc, works hand-painting each fan in his workshop at the back of the shop. It was here, in this land, that the art of making and designing these very Spanish fans began, a local treasure that began more than 300 years ago.

CITY OF ARTS AND SCIENCES

The spectacular City of Arts and Sciences is a boasting extravagant architecture phenomenon, newly built over the past few years with a sheer wealth of museums, galleries, and shows for people of all ages to enjoy. The premises comprise the Palace of Arts (Opera), Prince Felipe Science Museum, the Hemisféric (IMAX), a shaded terraced garden (Umbracle), and the famous aquarium of Valencia (Oceanográfic) and the Ágora ("la Caixa" Foundation opens the new cultural centre CaixaForum Valencia in the summer of 2022).

L'Umbracle Terrace

L'Umbracle Terrace is the backbone of the City of Arts and Sciences

State-of-the-art science complex, set in attractive surroundings, with aquarium and IMAX cinema screen

WITHOUT FURTHER ADO

The gastronomy in Valencia is traditional and innovative, making it a delight for foodies. A local favourite drink is a horchata de chufa, sweet and silky nut milk made from small, wrinkled tiger nuts. We recommend heading to the Casa de l'Orxata in Mercado de Colón and Horchatería Santa Catalina at Plaça de Santa Caterina nº 6 to get a taste of the best in a charming scenario.The famous paella Valenciana, fideuá (similar to paella, but replaced with noodles) and our personal favourite being the arroz negro 'black rice', which gets its colour from the ink of the cuttlefish, are all popular demands in the region. For great rice dishes we recommend you venture a little out of the city centre and visit Casa Carmela, they cook paella on a real wood fire! Top service, amazing staff and the food are impeccable.

Behind a modernist façade in the heart of the popular Cabanyal-Canyameral district of Valencia, lies Casa Montaña, a classic among the locals in the city. The tavern dates back to 1836, making it a tradition to go on Sundays for appetisers. For dinner, we would recommend Al Tun Tún for its gastro-life concept with cheer music, fine wine, and great Mediterranean dishes.

Located 10 kilometres south of Valencia city, you can visit the La Albufera viewpoint and enjoy a boat trip around the canals that link to the largest lake in Spain. Many people flock to where the piers are to watch the sunset. This valuable coastal wetland is declared a Natural Park since 1986, with more than 200 Km² of rice fields. We recommend doing this excursion in the late morning and having a local paella dish at Restaurante La Sequiota in the nearby town of El Palmar.

La Albufera

Hire a sunset boat trip in La Albufera

Valencia city is such an enjoyable city, with new concepts opening up on the regular. We had like to add two more places that really impressed us on the last visit to the region’s capital. Valencia has been reaping a greater harvest thanks to the likings of restaurants like Living Bakkali. As the name itself expresses, is a place to live sensory experiences for the palate, with inspirations from the Middle East. The design by the interior design team Masquespacio takes you through mysterious designs that come lively in curved lines and earth tones, resembling a desert. The food is Mediterranean with a twist and has a special Cookie Monster dessert. Valencia is home to everyone’s favourite Spanish rice dish paella, but no other restaurant goes above and beyond like Restaurante Casa Carmela. Paella is cooked on real wood fire here, and you can get a peek of the action by entering the kitchen with permission. This place really highlights Valencia, with a perfect location by the beach.